Sloan Peak, Corkscrew Route, North Cascades

Sloan Peak (7,835') via the Corkscrew Route

"The Matterhorn of the Cascades"

Sloan Peak (7,835 ft) via the Corkscrew Route is one of Washington's most iconic alpine objectives. Known as the "Matterhorn of the Cascades," Sloan's striking pyramid profile makes it one of the most recognizable peaks on the west slopes of the North Cascades. At first glance, its steep faces seem to offer no reasonable line to the summit, making it hard to believe a non-technical route exists.

The Corkscrew Route proves otherwise, weaving around the mountain's south face via a narrow, exposed ledge before ascending the Sloan Glacier and finishing with engaging Class 3 scrambling to the summit. Along the way, climbers experience nearly every type of Cascade terrain—steep forest, alpine meadows, glacier travel, exposed ledges, and rugged rock scrambling.

Requiring glacier travel skills, route finding, and confident movement on exposed rock, the Corkscrew Route is a rewarding objective for experienced alpine climbers seeking one of the most aesthetic summits in the Cascades. Spectacular views of Glacier Peak, the Monte Cristo Range, and the rugged North Cascades await those who reach the summit.

📊 Trip at a Glance

📅 When

This climb will be completed car-to-car (C2C) on Saturday, August 15, requiring good endurance and fitness.

• Friday: Drive to the trailhead in the evening (~4.5 hours from Portland) and camp nearby.
• Saturday: Early alpine start, climb Sloan Peak, camp near the trailhead after the climb.
• Sunday: Drive back to Portland.

🌤 Conditions

Early July through mid-August is generally the sweet spot for climbing Sloan Peak. The Corkscrew ledges have typically melted out enough to follow safely while the Sloan Glacier remains relatively well bridged with fewer open crevasses. We will continue monitoring glacier and weather conditions as the trip approaches.

📍 Location

• Peak: Sloan Peak (7,835')
• Area: North Cascades, Washington
• Route: Corkscrew Route
• Trailhead: Bedal Creek (~2,800')
• Road: High-clearance vehicle recommended; 4WD preferred.

👥 Who

Experience Level

Intermediate to advanced alpine climbers. Depending on the overall group experience, someone with less glacier travel experience may be considered if they have completed crevasse rescue training (such as the SAC Crevasse Rescue Alpine Academy or equivalent).

Fitness

This climb gains approximately 5,000 feet over roughly five miles and requires sustained effort at a consistent pace. Climbers should be comfortable maintaining approximately 1,000 vertical feet per hour (excluding breaks). We will stop briefly approximately every hour.

👥 Team Structure

• One rope team of four climbers.
• Shared responsibilities for navigation, hazard assessment, and pacing.
• At least two members experienced and confident in crevasse rescue.