Mt. Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys Route) – 2-Night Climb Plan

When

• Dates: July 25th – July 27th (3 days / 2 nights)
• Seasonal Conditions: Mid-to-late July typically offers consolidated snowfields, exposed rock in Fisher Chimneys, and moderate glacier travel with crevasse visibility improving as the season progresses.
• Expected Weather: Stable summer alpine conditions; however, expect rapid weather changes, freezing overnight temps at elevation, and strong summit winds.

Where

• Location: Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft), North Cascades, Washington
• Route: Fisher Chimneys to Summit Pyramid via Sulphide Glacier
• Trailhead: Lake Ann Trailhead (~4,700 ft)
• Primary Camp: High Camp above Fisher Chimneys (~6,200–6,400 ft), near Winnie's Slide / Upper Curtis Glacier transition

What

Overall Objective

• Ascend Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys route with a summit push on Day 2.
• Manage mixed terrain: steep heather, exposed 4th/low-5th class rock, glacier travel, and moderate ice/snow slopes.

Day-by-Day Breakdown

Day 1 – Approach to High Camp

• Distance: ~4.5–5.5 miles
• Elevation Gain: ~1,800–2,000 ft
• Start Elevation: ~4,700 ft
• Camp Elevation: ~6,300 ft

• Begin at Lake Ann Trailhead, descending briefly before climbing toward Lake Ann.
• Traverse around the lake and ascend steep heather slopes to the base of Fisher Chimneys.
• Climb the chimneys (Class 3–4 with short low 5th class moves depending on line selection), including exposed scrambling sections.
• Continue past the chimneys across snow and ledges toward Winnie's Slide.
• Establish High Camp on rock benches or snow platforms near the Upper Curtis Glacier access.
• Evening: gear prep, route planning, early rest.

Day 2 – Summit Attempt and Return to High Camp

• Distance: ~4 miles round trip
• Elevation Gain: ~3,000–3,200 ft
• High Point: 9,131 ft (Summit)

• Alpine start (2:00–4:00 AM typical).
• Traverse the Upper Curtis Glacier with careful crevasse navigation.
• Climb onto the Sulphide Glacier via moderate snow/ice slopes.
• Ascend the Sulphide Glacier (30–35° slopes) toward the summit pyramid.
• Transition to rock for summit pyramid:

  • Low 5th class rock climbing with significant exposure.
  • Route finding critical; may involve short unprotected sections depending on rope usage.

• Summit (~9,131 ft) with views of Baker, the Pickets, and the Cascades.
• 2-3 Rappels off the summit pyramid.
• Return across Sulphide and Upper Curtis Glaciers to High Camp.
• Second overnight at High Camp.

Day 3 – Descent to Trailhead

• Distance: ~4.5–5.5 miles
• Elevation Loss: ~1,800–2,000 ft (plus minor gain)

• Break camp and retrace route toward Fisher Chimneys.
• Downclimb chimneys carefully (exposure increases on descent).
• Traverse back past Lake Ann and return to the trailhead.
• Exit typically completed by early afternoon.

Key Technical Challenges

• Exposed 4th to low 5th class rock in Fisher Chimneys and summit pyramid
• Route-finding complexity in both rock and glacier sections
• Glacier travel with crevasses (Upper Curtis & Sulphide)
• Steep snow/ice slopes requiring crampon and ice axe proficiency
• Rockfall and loose terrain hazards

Who

• Team Size: 6 climbers
• Experience Level: Intermediate to advanced alpine climbers

Required Skillset

• Comfortable on exposed high 4th class and low 5th class terrain
• Ability to safely move on unprotected scrambling terrain
• Comfortable with exposure
• Good level of fitness
• Proficient in rope management for glacier travel and short-pitching
• Experience with crevasse rescue systems
• Familiarity with steep snow and moderate ice technique (self-arrest, front-pointing)
• Efficient team communication and decision-making in alpine environments
• Priority will go to SAC organizers, assistants, members (in good standing) etc... If I have not climbed with you - shoot me an email with your climbing resume (noel.tavan@gmail.com

Team Structure

• 2 rope teams of 3 climbers each for glacier travel
• Shared responsibilities for navigation, hazard assessment, and pacing
• At least 2 members experienced in leading exposed alpine rock sections