Santiam Alpine Club
 Schedule   Trip Reports   Instruction   Donate 

Building Skills: High Angle Rescue (HAR) #2 Thursday 7/23/26 6:00 pm - 9:00 pm

July 23, 2026

Coordinator: Noel Tavan

When: Thursday 7/23/26 6:00 pm - 9:00 pm

Where: Probably SW Portland (near Zoo) at a park or local crag in town - location will be shared with Participants

What: The following agenda is a draft and subject to change

Class 2 – Assisted Rescues & Vertical Movement

Theme: “Your partner cannot help themselves.”

Primary Goal:

Introduce mechanical advantage, hauling, and lowering systems while maintaining control and safety margins.

Learning Objectives

Build and operate simple hauling systems

Transition between haul → lower → rappel

Manage incapacitated climbers on rope

Understand friction, edge issues, and system forces

Hands‑On Skill Blocks

Pickoffs (Assist Rescues)

From above (belay/rappel station)

Emphasis on stability and tether management

Hauling Systems

2:1 and 3:1 concepts

Resetting under load

Lowering Systems

Lower past obstacles or over edges

Fireman‑style backups (conceptual)

Passing Knots While Managing a Load

Mid‑rope knots, damaged rope scenarios

Scenarios

Leader fall with injury just below anchor

Second frozen mid‑pitch due to exhaustion

Stuck climber above a roof or traverse

End‑of‑Class Benchmark

Students can:

âś… Ascend the rope to reach leader

âś… Execute a controlled pickoff

âś… Build and operate a basic haul while belaying from above

âś… Lower a loaded system smoothly while belaying from above

âś… Convert to baseline while belaying from above

Who:

Primary Target Audience: Priority will go to SAC organizers, then assistants and attendance is encouraged. Finally recreational climbers who already climb or work on rope and need rescue skills that are realistic, efficient, and field‑appropriate. Often climbing in remote environment (Multi‑pitch rock climbers, Trad climbers, Alpine climbers, and Ice climbers). Come if you want to learn new skills, refresh on already acquired skills or come out and help participants. Priority will go to folks who can attend all 3 sessions. If you are not able to attend the previous HAR session, there will be homework and you are expected to know the previous material.

Why HAR matters to them: Climbing environments are remote and self‑rescue is often the only option.

Baseline skills assumed: Knots, belaying, rappelling, Anchor building, Comfortable hanging on rope

Contact me if you have questions: noel.tavan@gmail.com

Signed Up: 4
Awaiting Approval: 4
Maximum Allowed: 6
Your Status
Log In to join this event or view your status.

Event Forum
No discussion about this event has yet been submitted.

Log In to participate in the forum.

Santiam Alpine Club

Banquet

E-mail group

GPS routes

Luau

Membership application

Club Dues Payment

Mountain climbing sites

Rope locker

Site map

Trip reports

Club officers

Education

Mountain climbing school

Rock climbing at Smith Rock

Glacier travel and crevasse rescue

Ice climbing

Mountain Climbing School Manual

Mountain climbing terms

Videos