Torment–Forbidden Traverse (North Cascades)

When

Primary Dates: July 10–12

Backup Exit Date: July 13 (weather-dependent)

The primary plan is a three-day traverse with camp-based bivouacs as conditions dictate.

July 13 is reserved as a contingency day for delayed descent or a slower exit due to weather,

route conditions, or team needs.

What

The Torment–Forbidden Traverse is a classic alpine mountaineering route linking

Mount Torment to Forbidden Peak via a high, exposed ridgeline. The activity includes

glacier travel, steep snow climbing, 3rd–5th class scrambling, and sustained

alpine terrain.

This is a committing, technical route typically completed by experienced alpine climbers

comfortable with route-finding, rope management, and moving efficiently over complex terrain.

Where

Range: North Cascades, Washington

Access: Boston Basin via the Cascade River Road

The route begins near Boston Basin, ascends Mount Torment, follows the Torment–Forbidden

ridge, and finishes on Forbidden Peak, with descent typically back into Boston Basin

or an alternate exit depending on conditions.

What

Plan Overview:

• Day 1 (July 10): Approach from trailhead to Boston Basin, establish high camp, and prepare for alpine start.
• Day 2 (July 11): Climb Mount Torment and complete the Torment–Forbidden Traverse, bivouac as needed.
• Day 3 (July 12): Summit Forbidden Peak and descend toward Boston Basin or planned exit.
• Day 4 (July 13 – Backup): Weather or timing contingency for delayed descent or alternative exit.

Final decisions on pacing, bivy locations, and exit timing will be made in the field based

on weather forecasts, snow conditions, and team energy. Flexibility and conservative judgment

are key priorities for the trip.

THIS CLIMB IS FULL. If you want to join the waitlist, please send me your climbing resume to noel.tavan@gmail.com. Priority will go to SAC organizers, assistants, members in good standing, and climb school graduates with previous experience relevant to the activity.