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Mount Washington Climb

September 29, 2012

Coordinator: Fritz Capell

Summit Altitude: 7794 feet
Elevation Gain: 4000 feet
Round-trip Distance: 8 miles
Excursion Time: 14 hours (car-to-car)

Photo Gallery

GPS Track (courtesy of Nathan)

This one was a big project: myself plus twelve climbers, almost none of whom had done this mountain before. I originally intended to limit it to 10 - even that is big team for this mountain, but after such a dull summer, much of which I couldn't climb at all due to my foot still being in recovery from a bad break the year before, everybody wanted to go.

So, to manage all that, I had us split into three groups. My group could go up first and set up all the ropes and protection, we could bring each of the other groups up and down on the summit block, and pack out. It came pretty close to working, too.

Each group was divided so that they had one club member for a leader, and at least one GPS for guidance, with a GPS track that I had made available beforehand, since the ridge-tailings can be tricky on that route. It's not bad if you have a sense of the route, but there is little visibility of the mountain or the intended ridge, so it can make for a lot of muddling around. The first group turned out to be myself, Gabe, Nate, Tyler, and Tim, departing the PCT trailhead at 6:30. The next group was Peter, Jenny, Nathan, and Humaira, departing a couple hours later. And finally, Steven, Adrian, Craig, and Neil got to make a leisurely late-morning start.

My group reached the saddle about noon and starting setting up the ropes. We were hoping to have tagged the summit and be ready to belay the next group up, but they ascended a little faster than we did and caught up with us when my climbers were on the last pitch before the summit.

We set up three ropes for protection. The first, of course, on the long treacherous pitch just above the saddle. From there, I set a fixed line tied at both ends, winding around to the left, up, and around to the right. I put a few loops in the rope in the tricky bits, so that if the climbers were nervous they could clip into them and limit their exposure. None of the small pitches on that fixed line were all that dangerous, it was just a matter of keeping one from losing control and falling right off the mountain. The third rope was used for the top pitch, and also for a tricky bit right below that, although the rope wasn't quite long enough to do both at the same time, so I was constantly repurposing it, or at least a part of it. A fourth rope would have really made it all work out.

So we were working the summit block from about noon until after 4pm. Most of us ended up on the summit together, excepting a few of my original group who had got bored and headed out.

The summit was beautiful. It was a gorgeous and clear day, with just a little breeze. We got a really good look at the Pole Creek Fire burning over north of the Sisters, which I'm sure we will be taking a closer look at in future climbing seasons.

There was only one other group up there that day, two men and two small girls who were climbing without helmets and with almost no protection. I tried to help them, but they refused help and kept doing stupid things, like climbing across our ropes on exposed pitches when we had a climber on. We just tried to stay out of their fall lines. At one point I felt I just had to say something, so I told one of them that from our perspective, what they were doing was dangerous to the point of being foolish. He didn't really say anything, but I hope he gave it a good thought in reflection.

The other main hazard of that summit block, even with all the protection, is falling rocks, usually kicked by other climbers. I had warned everybody to be delicate when placing your feet, and to check holds carefully, and all our teams did an awesome job. The only significant rock that fell was caused by me pulling a rope down.

Then we all rapped out, tore down, and rushed off the mountain, as usual staying just ahead of the falling sun, trying to get down the scree field to the flat land before dark, and just barely making it in the twilight. I found probably the best route I've taken on that descent, heading as far to the west (left, around the mountain) as possible, along the sides of the ridges. The rock offered some good holds, and this route kept out of everyone's fall lines. The top part of that descent is always tricky, slippery, and scary, and I would highly recommend the route that I took. At the far west, it joins the scree trail that traverses the field in a gentle slope back across to the north.

We hiked out under headlamps, most of the crew all together. We had some trouble finding the trail, and had to do a bit of bushwhacking along the side of the ridge, but we stayed pretty high to avoid underbrush and eventually found the ridge trail, descending it back to the PCT at the cairn.

A couple more hours' trudging, and we were all back to the cars by about 9:30. Another great SAC adventure!

- Fritz


Pre-Event Forum
[View Post-Event Forum]

Tyler asks:
Hi Fritz, glad you got your half foot back. I was wondering if Noelle and i could get in on this one? We had a blast at climb school, Were doing the ice climb session with Doug and would like to stay as active as we possible can with two mini mountaineers. Thanks a lot, talk to you soon, Noelle & Tyler.

Fritz (leader) answers:
Hi Tyler, yep, sign yourselves up!

Tyler answers:
I dont know how to add two, but I'll try it from Noelles e-mail.

Fritz (leader) answers:
Yeah, you can't add two people from one account; it's sort of a one by one thing. Looks like her account is coming through, so she can sign herself up.


Steven says:
Fritz, how do I change my #? It isn't current. Thanks, and thanks for adding to the activities page. I'm ready!!!

Fritz (leader) answers:
Hmm, I don't remember... isn't there an 'edit your information' link above? I can't see from here, I'm on the road..

Steven answers:
Got it. Thanks.


Fritz (leader) asks:
Have any of you been up this mountain before?

Steven answers:
No.

Jenny answers:
Nope.

Adrian answers:
No

Craig answers:
To the top, no.. Back in June Neil, Ian and myself attempted and got to the notch, just going on route info I could find on the web and books. I could not find the route beyond the notch so we turned back rather than pressing on.

Peter answers:
yes i did this- blindfolded with my hands tied behind my back and all.. kidding aside, yes, with you and some other SACters a couple of years back. I remember a huge boulder rolling down the side of the mountain towards one of our climber....pretty awesome!

Tyler answers:
only in my dreams

Gabe answers:
Not I

Timothy answers:
No


Fritz (leader) asks:
So, I'm thinking that to manage this group size, we should split into two groups and go one on Saturday, one on Sunday. Who could go Sunday instead, if that's what happens?

Gabe answers:
Count me in for Sunday. I'd actually prefer it.

Fritz (leader) answers:
(In case anyone is confused, I would lead the climb both days.)

Craig answers:
Neil will most likely be working Sun and I would like to climb together so Sat. still works best for us

Fritz (leader) answers:
Hello, anyone else that can do Sunday instead?

Nathan answers:
I can do either day.

Jenny answers:
i'd still prefer saturday, please.


Timothy says:
Hi Fritz. Sunday works better for me.


Steven says:
I can do Sunday if it helps the situation. Was hoping to get back Saturday night but I'm not stuck on that idea.

Adrian answers:
Both days work for me but first choice would be Saturday


Tyler says:
I would like Saturday but am willing to do either. Noelle may be a tentative, we're trying to work it out but are still unsure.


Fritz (leader) asks:
It seems like there isn't much enthusiasm for Sunday (at least, it doesn't look like half the group), so here's an alternative plan: we can go Saturday in two groups, first 6 led by me, second 6 led by Peter and/or Craig, a couple hours later. I'll have all the pro set up and the first group will be nearly off the top by the time the second group arrives, but I'll be there to help. We want to keep the number of people on the summit block to a minimum because of the potential for rockfall. The day will be longer and there will be some waiting involved. We should nail this down soon so that people have their calendars straight. Thoughts?

Steven answers:
I'm down with that idea.

Adrian answers:
Works for me.

Fritz (leader) answers:
Btw, just to clarify, the lower part is non-technical and the leadership responsibility would just be guiding up the trail and ridge, very straightforward. The groups would essentially meet at the saddle, where the technical climbing begins, but we'd have to take turns from the saddle up to the summit and back.

Craig answers:
Sounds like a good plan.

Fritz (leader) answers:
Ok, this is the plan of record. Everybody going on Saturday, in two or more groups depending on who we can get to lead a group on the non-technical part. GPS coordinates of the route will be available.


Fritz (leader) says:
Climb has been "opened for verification". This means there should be a box above where you can make sure your status (attending/tentative/etc) and contact details are up to date. Please check that and submit it!


Fritz (leader) asks:
Volunteer leaders needed! We need a few responsible people who can load a track/waypoints on their GPS and guide their group up the trail and ridge to the saddle. I have a complete GPS track, but there are only really two critical junctures to find. Who can lead a group?

Craig answers:
I think I could find my way up but it will look much different without the snow. No GPS either. Happy to help with whatever is needed


Gabe says:
I would employ myself to lead a group, but I propose Nathan to lead the first group with his GPS skills along with the fact that he, myself and Humaira can carpool and meet with Fritz and whomever to get the first group up, descend, then assist as needed in getting other groups to the summit. I could possible dawn linebacker gear and hold off other non-SAC hopefulls just long enough to make this million man march successful. :)

Nathan answers:
I would be willing to help a group with said GPS skills. I would also pay to see Gabe climb in linebacker gear. Alternatively, we can change the signs at the two junctions to mislead other ther groups. Only those with Fritz' secret map will make it. SAC only summit day?

Humaira answers:
I am loving this!

Adrian answers:
Fritz if you need more people with gps let me know

Fritz (leader) answers:
Gabe, thanks for offering to ascend twice, and I think you could probably do it, but I don't think the timing will work out, it would take too long.


Fritz (leader) says:
The GPS Route file is posted above in the Team-Only Information section. If you have a GPS and the time, please load up the file. It's in gdb format (Garmin); if you need something different, please let me know.


Peter says:
The trail is well marked, well trodden and you can see where you are going. I don't have GPS but I have M.A.P. What is the name of the campsite, I forgot, I know how to get there but can't remember the name.

Fritz (leader) answers:
Big Lake, directions above.


Peter says:
Jenny and I are carpooling, coming from Portland. Does anybody needs a ride? I can take 2 more passengers and gear.

Humaira answers:
Maybe I can carpool with you if you are leaving from Portland. Also, I think Nate and Gabe are traveling from PDX. What day & time are you leaving?

Gabe answers:
I am looking for a ride and would be looking to leave portland by anywhere from noon to whenever.

Peter answers:
We are planning of leaving from Lake Oswego around 6 30 pm...I am not sure if that will work for you but if it does, give me or Jenny a call. my cell is (shown above). Were going home saturday after the climb...

Adrian answers:
Steven and I are leaving my place at 6. We'll be coming from beaverton

Humaira answers:
Peter, yes, the later departure works for me. I will be coming from the coast (Astoria area). Thanks.


Tyler says:
Thanks for offering. Noelle isn't going to be able to make it. I'm not sure what time I can get out of town and I have to book it back up here when we're done.


Fritz (leader) asks:
Is anybody NOT camping with us at Big Lake? Please respond here so that we can make sure you get grouped up (I'm assuming that we will be making some of our final plans around the campfire).

Adrian answers:
Steven and I are planning to camp at the lake. We're leaving at 6


Nathan says:
I'm also interested in a ride and/or driving a carpool leaving on Friday.


Fritz (leader) says:
I'd like to leave Portland before rush hour Friday, targeting say 3pm, from the area of Washington Square. Returning Saturday night after the climb. Anybody want to join up with me?

Timothy answers:
I'll be leaving later. Hopefully I can make the campground before it gets too dark.

Nathan answers:
I should be able to leave work before then, so I'm interested. Just have to confirm I can leave work early.

Gabe answers:
I would like an earlier departure as well so this would work well for me. Let me know if you have room and Im in.

Nathan answers:
Fritz, just wanted to confirm I'm in for leaving early tomorrow. Where/when do you plan on meeting?

Gabe answers:
I suppose i'm in the same boat as Nathan...just waiting on confirmation of being accepted on the early train and I can meet anywhere around Portland really.

Fritz (leader) answers:
Yes of course guys we can go together tomorrow. For Gabe it's probably easiest to meet at my house (I'll email address). We can pick up Nathan. That'll be full for my car; if we can take Gabe's Jeep (can we?) we can probably take one more. Anyone?

Fritz (leader) answers:
Update: no Jeep, so we're full.

Nathan answers:
Fritz, I have all my stuff with me at work, so I can meet you if that makes it easier. Either way works for me, just let me know.


Fritz (leader) says:
Everybody, please look over the 'required equipment' list as you're packing, and consider that a minimum. You don't want to be the only one without the necessary thing. If there's something you don't have, let me know, I probably have spares (for example: poles).

Fritz (leader) answers:
Note if you press the 'Packing List' link, it makes a nice page that you can either print off, or just check off things right on your computer.

Fritz (leader) answers:
The 'daisy carabiner' is just a regular carabiner, preferably locking but non-locking is ok too, that is on the end of your daisy or prusik. When you reach the top anchor, you will want to clip in for safety using your daisy or prusik. Bring two if you have them.


Fritz (leader) says:
Weather report is looking good; cloudy today but clearing tomorrow, morning lows in the 30/40's, afternoon high potentially in the 70's, but could stay much chillier up high.


Fritz (leader) says:
Everybody seems to be carpooled up except Craig/Neil, Tim, Tyler, Nate. Can some of you join up with each other? My group could squeeze in one more, leaving in the afternoon. Also other groups, who has free seats and when are you leaving from roughly where?

Nate answers:
I was waiting on some family decisions ... looks like I'm driving my wife and kids to just outside of Salem around 2:00, and then heading over by myself from there a little later, say, 6:00. If anyone is down in the Salem area, they can definitely hop in with me once the seats in my car are free!

Fritz (leader) answers:
I think Craig and Neil are coming from Silverton. Possibly you guys could join up. I don't think we have any other Salemites this time...

Nate answers:
Works for me ... if Tyler joins with me in Salem I'd still easily have room for two more.

Timothy answers:
After the hike, I am heading to Terrebonne for some relaxation and climbing.


Fritz (leader) says:
Humaira, Tyler, Neil: please check your contact info and "verify" participation. See above in the "Your Status" section.

Humaira answers:
Done. Thank you Fritz.


Tyler says:
Have to pick up my P.O.S. car at the shop and realistically leaving the west side around 430 ish. willing to share space (tight quarters)or maybe I could meet you in Salem Nate?

Nate answers:
That works for me ... do you know of a place to leave your car by Salem? I'm not super familiar with the area.

Fritz (leader) answers:
The first exit off of hwy 22 is Lancaster; there's a big parking lot there with a sports store and a Shari's, so you know there's activity all night.

Nate answers:
Do you want to meet in this parking lot around 6:20 Tyler?

Tyler answers:
I'll see you there. Thanks! Call if there's any problems.


Tyler says:
That was leaving Salem around 6 right?

Nate answers:
Yep


Tyler says:
What say? I'm pretty sure i can be to Salem around 6.


Tyler says:
Did'nt see the rest of your message. No I'm not familiar. Anyone know a place?


Jenny says:
Here's a link to an Oregon Field Guide segment on the climb, for anyone who wants a preview. http://www.opb.org/programs/ofg/segments/view/1682


Fritz (leader) says:
Since I may not get to talk to some of you before you depart, I try to identify the main hazards of any climb and how to mitigate them. This mountain, it's all about rotten rock on the summit block. This means holds can break off, and rock fall is a big hazard. This means that every hold can be unreliable, and watch for people above and below you.

Since you'll be on belay, even if a hold breaks, no worry. The anchors are on well-proven rocks that we have been using for many years.

Watch carefully where you are putting your feet, and don't kick or move anything if you can help it. If you do kick anything off, yell "rock" to those who might be below you.

If rockfall is heading in your direction, don't look up, hug the mountain and keep as low a profile as you can. Falling rocks can injure, but if they knock you off the mountain, that's lots worse.

You do have the option to turn back at the saddle and avoid any hazards; but I've taken many people to the summit without incident. Just be careful what you are doing, watch your protection, check each other, and we can do this quite safely.


Craig asks:
Is anyone at big lake camp? If so, what number site?


Craig says:
We're in site 1


Gabe says:
In site 36 and 37...tim is there fritz group eta 20 min.


Gabe says:
In site 36 and 37...tim is there fritz group eta 20 min.


This forum is closed at this time.

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