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Snow and Ice Climbing Practice, Eliot Glacier on Mount Hood


Poor weather conditions on Saturday, 10/9/04, confined our activity to Sunday-only, 10/10/04. That day, however, proved to be a marvelous one on the glacier; and all the more so because it was complemented by an eager and lively group of enthusiasts-Todd Wonder, John Solonika, Rich and Dana Margosian, Gregg Huld, Kari Friedwald, Shawn Donley, Rick Beasley, Kipp Bajaj, and, our participant of honor, Doug Adair.

A leisurely hike from the Cloud Cap Saddle camp area led us along and eventually over a moraine to the lower Eliot glacier. Freshly deposited snow from the previous days' storm was to be found here and there along our route.

Morning activities focused on basic crampon and two-tool ice technique and practice. A demonstration-by Kipp-of what NOT to do on 'thinly-veiled' crevasse pools rounded out the morning's lessons. After a casual lunch in the sunshine, our group moved higher up on the Eliot, where we found a spot above some large crevasses to build top-roped anchors for our ice climbing practice.

The day was an especially noteworthy one, since our good friend, Doug Adair was back out on the ice!

Photo Credits: Kari Friedwald and Gregg Huld

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