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Mount Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Route

Hello Sacsters,

On July 10 and 11 Craig Faiman, Rich Margosian and I attempted Mt. Stuart (9,415') via the Cascadian Couloir (class 3). We hiked in to Ingalls Creek via Longs Pass and made camp there. Rich and I scouted the route beginning, which is rather obscure, and wound up on a variation with a 1,000' elevation gain. We did find the proper route from advice of other climbers.

Sunday we got an early start about 4:00 a.m. and headed up the couloir. We were treated to perfect weather and great views of Rainier, Adams and valleys below. Once we got above the couloir (8,600') we came across a fallen climber (Lee Wilcox) who had been stabilized by his partners and other climbing parties. We assisted in the rescue effort. Craig helped with communication with the Search & Rescue using his cell phone and GPS. Rich and I helped with clothing, shelter and first aid gear.

A mountain goat came down for closer inspection of us while we waited for the helicopter. The Oregon National Guard (SAR unit) was called in with a blackhawk helicopter. At 1:15 p.m. Lee Wilcox was airlifted to safety. Lee suffered a broken pelvis.

Our day was pretty much over for climbing. We were only 800' from the summit! Another day perhaps.

Gregg Huld


Santiam Alpine Club


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