Contact us

 Activities  Climbing Instruction 

Mount Hood, Reid Glacier Headwall Route

Hi SACsters,

Just a brief report on the annual SAC/Chemeketan winter Mt. Hood marathon. Last year it was 18 hours to and from Cathedral Ridge; this year, a 16 hour ice-fest on Reid Glacier Headwall. Debra Marsh, Jim Rudy and I left the Timberline climb cave just after 4:00 am in clear, cold, and nearly windless conditions. We roped up at Illumation Saddle and headed down onto the Reid about sunrise. The lower section of the route, to the first narrow canyon, went easily on packed snow. From about 9,800' all the way to the summit, out came the second tools because the surface was largely ice - blue, rime, melt, and every possible combination. The route ranged from 45-55 degree slopes and traverses with occasional steeper sections. The footing was treacherous, so we moved slowly and very carefully, placing protection at the cruxes. Hour after hour, we wound through steep canyons between spectacular pallisades of rime and icicle-encrusted rock. The views of the lower mountain, Yokum Ridge and Leuthold Couloir were unsurpassed. Finally, completely exhausted, we made the summit just in time for a stunning sunset. We arrived back at Timberline just after 8:00. Kudos to Debra and Jim for outstanding stamina, excellent focus, and having the reserve to pull though the cruxes - over and over. Next time let's do it on snow . . .

Doug Adair

Photos Gallery

Santiam Alpine Club


E-mail group

GPS routes


Membership application

Member info update

Mountain climbing sites

Rope locker

Site map

Trip reports

Club officers


Mountain climbing school

Rock climbing at Smith Rock

Glacier travel and crevasse rescue

Ice climbing

Mountain Climbing School Manual

Mountain climbing terms