Mt Rainier Kautz Glacier via Van Trump (half kautz available)

Permit pending and weather dependent.

Half Kautz climb is available for folks who don't want to do the technical/exposed part of the climb. The half kautz climbs to Camp Hazard. The Kautz Glacier route (the Kautz) is the third most popular climbing route on Mount Rainier after the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons-Winthrop. It is also a considerable step up in commitment and difficulty from the Disappointment Cleaver or Emmons Winthrop routes. The approach is long and the climbing route itself requires a high level of proficiency in ice climbing and glacier travel. Participants are expected to have already summitted Mt Rainier and have previous glacier experience.

If you want to join, please send me your climbing resume to Noel.Tavan@gmail.com. Priority will go to SAC members in good standing, organizers, assistant and climb school graduates with previous experience.

• Friday May 23rd:

Meet at paradise park early to pickup permits and drive to Van Trump trailhead. Start hiking.

First camp will be at Upper Castle camp at 9800ft.

Hike: 4.5mi

Vertical gain: 6500ft

Time: 8-10 hours

• Saturday May 24th

Hike from camp to Camp Hazard at 11600ft. We will go over techniques and refresher. Go to bed early to prepare for the alpine start.

Hike: 1 mi

Vertical gain: 1200 ft

Time: 4-5 hours

• Sunday May 25th

Alpine start and push to summit and back down to camp Hazard.

Hike to summit: 1.5mi

Vert: 3000ft

Time: 6-8 hours

• Hike back down to Camp

Summit to camp Hazard: 1.5mi

Descent: 3000ft

Time: 3-5 hours

• Monday May 26th (Memorial day)

Pack up and hike back to car

Hike: 5.5mi

Desc: 7700ft

Time: 8-10 hours

• Tuesday May 27th - Reserved if weather window changes.

Tracks: https://caltopo.com/m/V50M6

More info: https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/Kautz-Glacier-Routebrief.pdf