Santiam Alpine Club
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Hood Climb - South Route (half and full)

May 20 to May 21, 2023

Coordinator: Noel Tavan

Summit Altitude: 11259 feet
Elevation Gain: 5400 feet
Round-trip Distance: 8 miles
Excursion Time: 12 hours (car-to-car)

Met one hour early at 10:30p to avoid hot forecast and minimize ice/rock fall. Started a little after 11pm. Tim B. turned around on top of Palmer with assisting climber Adrian. After devil's kitchen, we did the low traverse right above the hot rocks. We were up early and no one was climbing the middle chute (one o'clock couloir). Folks were mostly going up old chute (left) but there were hugging the wall and we didn't want to be under them and exposed to ice falls so we went to the middle chute. A few folks were going up and down the 3 o'clock chute (right). The final climb on that one was pretty steep but you avoid a lot of the catwalk at the top.

2-3 climbers decided for pearly gates. I wouldn't recommend as you have to wide cross runnels and the whole time you are exposed to falling down the bergschrund.

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