There was not much of the Eliot Glacier this year. To reach a suitable spot we had to hike up higher on the mountain than we have ever done in prior years. The view while getting rescued shows the condition of the ice, not hard enough for two tooling. With some digging we found a couple spots of ice capable of holding ice screws for the pulley anchor. The belay anchor was made from two ice axes handles jammed into the glacier. By contrast, last year the pick of an ice ax bounced off the glacier as though the ice were made of steel.