Three Fingered Jack

August 24, 2013

Coordinator: Fritz Capell

Summit Altitude: 7844 feet
Elevation Gain: 3200 feet
Round-trip Distance: 13.1 miles
Excursion Time: 16 hours (car-to-car)

Photo Gallery

Six of us departed from the PCT trailhead at a bright and early 3:30am: Myself, Adrian, Nathan, Mark, Humaira and Trevor. Our goal was to be the first on the mountain, and if possible, see the run rise over eastern Oregon from TFJ's south ridge. A second group left at 6:30am, consisting of assistant-leader Steven, and Michael and Kirsten. They had to leave later because Gabe had other commitments keeping him later, but in the end he wasn't able to make it. At any rate, we expected that they would catch up to us while we were setting up the ropes on the summit block.

We traveled up the PCT, arriving at the cairn marking the climber's trail at about 6:10am and ascending up to the crest of the ridge about 7am. Unfortunately, we missed the sunrise by about an hour, but we did get some spectacular views of the foggy Willamette Valley and the clear and beautiful Oregon desert. We then ascended the ridge; usually the best routes are along the west side of the ridge, but they are sort of choked with trees in spots, so we deviated and explored the east side of the ridge. The route was more difficult, and there was more exposure, and we couldn't see much so we had to guess at the route a lot. As the rock started to get sketchy, we returned to the safety of the west side.

We reached the crawl about 8:30am and set up a fixed line across it. While not terribly difficult, it features a tricky little pitch at the end which is at an awkward angle, and looking down over a lot of air. Besides the webbing anchors at each end, there is a piton in the wall at the crux of the crawl for secondary protection. I recalled that last time I was there, there were two pitons, but this time I could only find one.

Our second team arrived then, though Michael and Kirsten declined to tackle the rest of the mountain, since they had neglected to bring their helmets. Shortly after I had set the fixed line across the crawl, another group popped out over the ridge, expressing audible disappointment that we had beat them to the bottleneck.

As the team came one-by-one across the crawl, I set up the next pitch. Usually the area above the crawl isn't protected; it isn't very difficult climbing, although the exposure is intense. This time, I set a fixed line along that area, tying into a couple rocks along the way to shorten a potential fall, and with loops in the rope on the verticals to limit exposure there. Very safe. The only problem was that I ran out of rope, so the last 40 feet or so before the saddle were not protected, which again are not difficult, but the exposure can be scary.

My goal with the final summit block was to break it into two sections that could be belayed separately, so I had brought four ropes so we'd have two for this purpose, but as I was setting up we realized that we had dropped off one of the ropes back at the crawl, probably an hour away considering the upcoming climbers. So I quickly reconfigured, and found that the one remaining rope was enough to use separately for both pitches, it was just a little more complicated.

The other team was impatient, so I let their leader come up and belay from the middle anchor. He seemed to have the impression that we were bozos, so he was a little bit bossy, and thoroughly investigated my setup, which was just fine with me, and apparently it met his approval. He managed to annoy several of my team quite a bit with his mothering.

So each climber clipped into a loop at the end of the rope, and was belayed up to the central anchor. From there, they clipped with a daisy or prusik into the anchor while they made a quick transition from the lower to upper rope, where another climber at the top would belay them to the summit. Since there is only room for about three people on the summit, we went in a cycle where the climber would rest and enjoy the summit for one cycle, belay for one cycle, and then rappel out. It went really smoothly, but still took over two hours from the time we started setting up to the time we tore down and I rapped out. Everybody reached the summit between about 12pm and 2pm.

I transitioned the anchors over to the other team and tore down, and we headed back down to the crawl. One other two-person team arrived as we were finishing the crawl, and we let them use our fixed line to get across, provided they would untie the rope when I got secured, saving me from having to downclimb the crawl on belay, which puts me pretty far out on the end of the rope. I thought they would pull their line along for a fixed line, but they had only one so they needed it for the summit block.

From there, we picked our way back down the ridge, pushing as far south as we could on the ridge to avoid the scar, and walked back out, reaching the trailhead at about 7:30pm. There was a PCT hiker there who had set up a "Trail Magic" spot and was serving up tacos, beer, and all sorts of good and rare things for the through-hikers. He welcomed us to join in the magic.

It was a long day, but we made it up, and back down with the same number of climbers. A success! Thanks everybody for climbing safely and making it such a great time!

- Fritz

Pre-Event Forum
[View Post-Event Forum]
Carrie says: Awesome, Fritz! Thanks for putting this together! Yay!
Michael asks: Fritz, can you add my wife, Kirsten, to the list as well?
Fritz (leader) answers: Yep!
Carrie asks: Oh shit. I read the date wrong. I can't go. Dammit.
Fritz (leader) answers: Dammit, Carrie! Can't they just have the wedding on a different day?
Humaira asks: I want to go. I was up there 3 years ago so it would be fun to get back there again provided there is room.
Gabe says: Looks like an awesome group. Good Times!
Steven answers: Hell yeah, looks like a strong team.
Adrian says: Looking forward to it. Can't wait
Adrian says: Looking forward to it. Can't wait
Steven answers: You sooo excited you had to post twice, huh? Lol
Adrian answers: Work was slow. So was the internet connection. Lol
Fritz (leader) asks: Anybody want to join up with Adrian I this Saturday? We're going up to explore the Olympics - one full day trip, a lot of driving, and probably a minor peak, maybe 6-8 hour, a walkup. Good for conditioning. We have two seats to spare!
Humaira asks: Fritz, why is a belay device "optional?" Will be down climbing the chimney instead of a rapp down?
Fritz (leader) answers: No, we'll be rapping down. Bring your device if you have one; I made it optional just because usually there are enough to go around.
Fritz (leader) says: Ok, everybody, time to Verify! This means there should be a form up above where you review your contact details, and lets me know you're still in, and paying attention! Please go interact with that form at your earliest convenience.
Fritz (leader) asks: The ideal way to do this is to leave the trailhead at 3am; that makes us the first on the mountain, and we get to enjoy a nice sunrise from the ridge. Optionally, we can have a second group leave a couple hours later, if anybody knows the route from the PCT up to the catwalk. Everybody able to get there for a 3am departure? Anyone been there before?
Michael answers: Kirsten and I can do a 3AM departure. Will camp out on Friday night. Never been there before.
Steven answers: 3 AM sounds great to me. I've summited once before with you Fritz.
Fritz (leader) asks: Also, we will need four ropes. Who has club ropes they could bring along? (no personal ropes need apply)
Nathan answers: I have a club rope.
Gabe answers: I also have a club rope if need be.
Adrian says: I'm in for 3 am departure. Also I will bring the club rope that I have.
Humaira says: I am in for a 3 am departure. Makes for a long commute from the coast but the sunrise will be worth it.
Trevor says: I am in. Anyone want to carpool with me or pick me up?
Fritz (leader) answers: Where you coming from Trevor?
Trevor answers: I live just off the I5 killingsworth exit in Portland. I am up for camping Friday.
Nathan answers: Trevor, we can carpool if yo can meet in SW.
Trevor answers: Nathan call me so we can coordinate.
Fritz (leader) asks: Ok, carpool up! Who's got extra seats, from where, and who needs a seat, from where, and what time frame?
Gabe answers: I would like to carpool...when will anyone be passing by Canby, South of Wilsonville?
Fritz (leader) answers: I believe myself and Adrian and Steve are going together, and we have one extra seat. Departing Beaverton area, say 6pm.
Steven answers: Check.
Gabe answers: I'd like to join the party if you guys wouldn't mind a stop in Can by or maybe the Aurora exit?
Adrian answers: Sounds great to me. Excited for it.
Fritz (leader) says: Just wanted to clarify: in the text above I recommended camping at Big Lake; you could certainly do that if you wanted, but given our early departure, I was planning on just bush camping around the PCT trailhead. There is a toilet there but no water, and plenty of open space for tents, but no fires. Big Lake is about 15 minutes away, and would offer more comfortable camping if you have a longer evening to spend, but I expect that at least my group will arrive about dusk just sack out for a few hours. Make sense? Let me know if you're planning to go to Big Lake so that I'll know whether you're missing.
Mary asks: Hi Fritz- Bush camping at trailhead question. What time do you plan to get there Friday? Like to connect w/ you and group night before make sure I am on the same page etc.. I live in Salem and will take 22 to PCT trailhead. I am off Friday-so plan to get there around 6 pm. How many hours total is the Saturday climb event? Thanks.
Fritz (leader) answers: Hi Mary - I'd guess we'll be there about 9pm. The climb should be 13 hours car to car.
Nathan says: I'm also interested in carpooling. I'll be in the Tualatin area, looking to leave Friday afternoon, the earlier the better.
Mary asks: Hi: Plan to be there at 6 pm not 9 pm. Not sure what you mean 13 hours car to car. I just want to know how long the hike and climb is minus the car travel. That way I can figure out how much food/water to pack. If anyone wants to carpool w/ me , let me know. I can drive. I drive a Suv-cherokee jeep. we can meet at the car and ride -state motor pool- in salem right by I-5 exit 22 to detroit lake. They have an area where you can park a car over night . Let me know who needs a ride. more fun to ride up to the mountain w/ company. So happy and looking forward to this fun in the sun event. :O)
Fritz (leader) answers: Yes, that's what I mean, from the time you leave your car to the time you return to your car should be around 13 hours.
Mary asks: Fritz: 13 hours (hike/climb)is way taxing for me. I can do 6-10 but not 13 hours. Sorry. It would be nice to have a 6-10 hour excursion. Thanks. Have fun. mj
Fritz (leader) answers: Don't be scared by the hours; there's quite a bit of waiting around involved. It's actually pretty easy, 13 miles and 3200 feet elevation gain. Can you compare that with anything that you've done?
Nathan says: Is anyone planning on staying down south and camping Saturday night, or are most people heading back home after the climb Saturday?
Gabe says: Welp, I'm supposed to be receiving a shipment of rescue puppies from Puerto Rico (lol...no joke) and the flight was cancelled until tomorrow night...therefor I will be unable to attend any kind of alpine start climb on Sat. morning. However, if somehow a later climb is at all possible, I'd be on board...or if any brave souls wanted to go on Sunday... Anyways, Have Fun ladies and gents...be safe! Cheers!
Fritz (leader) answers: Steven is willing and able to lead a later group. What time would you be able to go?
Gabe says: I see myself getting home at about 1am and then making the drive to the TH and getting a few hours of shut-eye....6 of the clock a.m. would suffice I'd say....doable?
Fritz (leader) answers: Ok with me... it'll take us a few hours to get in and out of the summit block anyway, so you'll just be arriving with the fixed lines already in place.
Fritz (leader) answers: Anybody else want to join Steven and Gabe for a more leisurely start?
Michael answers: Yes. Can you include Kirsten and I in the later group? I function better when I don't have to wake up so early.
Steven answers: Sounds good, super excited.
Fritz (leader) says: So here's our carpools: 1) Myself, Steven and Adrian 2) Trevor and Nathan, 3) Michael and Kirsten. Gabe is late, Mark is tentative (whaddup, Mark?), and Humaira is coming from the beach, but could hook up in Salem I think. My car still has a seat, and the others likely do as well. You loners, who can you join?
Michael answers: We can take two more in our car - leaving from Portland at 6 on Friday. However, we're probably spending Saturday night in Bend, so you'd have to join another group for the return trip.
Mark says: I think Humaira and Nathan are pooling I was going to try to team up with them. If not I will bring my own rig Anyone up to go to big lake after and relax maybe go for a swim?
Nathan answers: Humaira, Trevor and I are meeting in Tualatin at 6 and heading South from there. We should have room for one more and can meet you anywhere along the way.
Gabe answers: I'm game for a swim.
Mark answers: Where in Tualatin are you meeting?
Nathan answers: Parking lot of the Grand Hotel, 7265 SW Hazelfern Rd, Portland, OR 97224
Gabe says: P.S. Nathan is bringing the requisite clown noses.....
Nathan answers: Guess I better find the local clown store tomorrow and get on this. Hope you can make it, Gabe!
Gabe answers: With bells on, good sir!
Fritz (leader) says: Nathan and Adrian, please bring your club ropes. Gabe, we won't need yours (and hopefully we'll be all set up already).
Fritz (leader) says: Everybody, if you have one webbing and a couple extra carabiners, throw them in. I have theoretically enough, but sometimes we run short.
Adrian answers: Got the rope. Some extra webbing, bunch of carabiners and an extra rappelling device.
Gabe says: Things are not going smoothly this morning and I have no choice but to bow out of the climb...I hope someone sees this and can let Steven know not to wait around for me...sorry for any inconvenience.
This forum is closed at this time.

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