Santiam Alpine Club

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South Sister via East Buttress

June 24, 2018

Coordinator: William Strycharz

Summit Altitude: 10358 feet
Elevation Gain: 5000 feet
Round-trip Distance: 13 miles
Excursion Time: 13 hours (car-to-car)

This is "not" the easy south side route up South Sister!

This is a very strenuous and steep alpine climb with crampons, ice axes on a rope team.

The East Buttress is a large feature on South Sister rising out and above Green Lakes. I will only attempt this route if it is snow covered. If we get to the East Butt and it is bare we will climb the Lewis Glacier to the South Side route to Summit. The Lewis Glacier is a fairly benign glacier but we will still be on a rope team for safety crossing it.

Meeting Time: 7am

Meeting Place: Green Lakes Trailhead

Route: Green Lakes trail to Green Lakes ele. 6560'.

We will turn left up the creek flowing from the Lewis Glacier. At the toe of the Lewis Glacier ele. 8,000' we will turn right up the East Buttress. This steep snow slope is our crux. On the East Butt we will have 2,000' of steep snow climbing to the safe saddle between the East Butt and the Summit Crater Rim. Once at the saddle it is an easy 500' ele. stroll to the summit rim. The crux is a one way trip up. We will not descend our ascent route.

Our descent route will be the normal south side route but we will turn left at the Lewis Glacier then traverse and descend it to Green Lakes and our exit trail. Post climb-Burgers and Beers at my truck at the trailhead!

Please be comfortable on steep slopes.

Please have climbed Mt. Hood previously or an equivalent steep route in the Cascades.

Be proficient in ice axe self arrest.

Signed Up: 5
Maximum Allowed: 6
Team Equipment: 2 light short alpine ropes, pickets, gps, rescue beacon, crevasse rescue kit
Required Equipment (each participant): Headlight , helmet, sun hat, glacier goggles or sunglasses, sunscreen spf 50+, windproof coat, light warm coat, light pack, 3+ liters of water, camelbacks ok, snacks, lunch, bugspray, long pants, ice axe straight shaft, mountaineering boots, crampons, gloves 2pr light and med , harness, 2 locking carabiners, 2 non locking carabiners, rappel device, prussik set (2), ,
Optional Equipment (each participant): approach sneakers, water filter, trekking poles, extra ice tool
Not Required: avalanche gear
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Event Forum

Carl says:
By the time of this event, I will have climbed (tentatively) adams, st Helens, middle sister, and broken top (the previous day), but not hood. If you feel this experience level is sufficient, I would be interested to join, but understand if you don't feel it is

Alice says:
Hello!! I have climbed Mt Adams in one day, and St Helens, and am doing the 1/2 Hood + Hood Climb with the Club. I would love to go on this Climb!

Jim says:
Howdy, I'm a 2018 climb school student who has climbed Hood three times, Adams, St. Helens and South Sister (easy route.) I'd love to join if you'll have me.

Tim says:
William - I can bring a few pickets if helpful. Lmk thanks.

William (leader) answers:
Sure Tim that would be helpful. Can you put a 60cm sling and non locker biner on each picket? Thx Bill

Tim answers:
Sure will do

Tim answers:
Sure will do

Tim says:
William - do you know if you can camp or sleep in your car at the Green Lakes Trailhead?

William (leader) says:
Hello Team, This is Bill Strycharz Unfortunately i have a family emergency this weekend and will be unable to lead this climb. I can reschedule it for June 24. I apologize sincerely for this inconvenience. Bill

Alice says:
Hi Bill, no worries, please take care of your family! I can go on June 24.

Tim says:
William - sorry to hear that! Hope everything is ok. Sign me up for June 24! Look forward to it.

Alice says:
Hi!! I am looking for a (one-way) ride back to Portland after the climb. Kindly let me know if anyone has space in their car. Appreciated!

John says:
Hello everyone, I plan on applying for this climb. Like Alice, I will be looking for a ride back to Portland after the climb. Also, I would need to know if anyone has a campsite reserved for Saturday night that I can doing Broken Top.

John answers:
I meant to ask if anyone has a campsite reserved for Saturday night that I could share, since I am doing Broken Top on Saturday.

Alice answers:
Hi John, most likely I will have to drice myself. If you are also doing Beoken Top like me, perhaps we can drive together. We can stay at the same campsite that Chris booked for Friday night (Saturday is now walk-in only).

Jim answers:
Hi, Alice and John. I am signed up for both Broken Top and South Sister, and I could drive both of you back to Portland if you'd like. I drive an SUV with a sleeping platform in the back that goes over 2 of the 3 rear seats, but there's enough space for 3 people and gear. Please let me know if either/both of you would like a ride.

John answers:
My ride situation has been resolved and I have plenty of room for anyone needing to get back to the Portland Metro area after Sunday's climb.

Alice answers:
Hi Jim, thankyou do much for offering. John and I will drive together back to Portland.

John says:
Alice, your plan sounds good to me. I am without my vehicle, so could I ride in your car? Any thoughts of camping Sunday night after a long climb weekend? Drive home will be the toughest part.

Tim says:
Bill - Have been trying to move a few things around on the calendar, but it looks like I will not be able to attend. If that changes in next day or so I will let you know. Sorry about that. Look forward to a next climb. Have fun!

John answers:
Sorry to hear that Tim. Bill, I will bring two pickets with slings and crevasse rescue gear.

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