Santiam Alpine Club

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South Sister via East Buttress

June 3, 2018

Coordinator: William Strycharz

Summit Altitude: 10358 feet
Elevation Gain: 5000 feet
Round-trip Distance: 13 miles
Excursion Time: 13 hours (car-to-car)

This is "not" the easy south side route up South Sister!

This is a very strenuous and steep alpine climb with crampons, ice axes on a rope team.

The East Buttress is a large feature on South Sister rising out and above Green Lakes. I will only attempt this route if it is snow covered. If we get to the East Butt and it is bare we will climb the Lewis Glacier to the South Side route to Summit. The Lewis Glacier is a fairly benign glacier but we will still be on a rope team for safety crossing it.

Meeting Time: 7am

Meeting Place: Green Lakes Trailhead

Route: Green Lakes trail to Green Lakes ele. 6560'.

We will turn left up the creek flowing from the Lewis Glacier. At the toe of the Lewis Glacier ele. 8,000' we will turn right up the East Buttress. This steep snow slope is our crux. On the East Butt we will have 2,000' of steep snow climbing to the safe saddle between the East Butt and the Summit Crater Rim. Once at the saddle it is an easy 500' ele. stroll to the summit rim. The crux is a one way trip up. We will not descend our ascent route.

Our descent route will be the normal south side route but we will turn left at the Lewis Glacier then traverse and descend it to Green Lakes and our exit trail. Post climb-Burgers and Beers at my truck at the trailhead!

Please be comfortable on steep slopes.

Please have climbed Mt. Hood previously or an equivalent steep route in the Cascades.

Be proficient in ice axe self arrest.

Signed Up: 3
Awaiting Approval: 2
Maximum Allowed: 6
Team Equipment: 2 light short alpine ropes, pickets, gps, rescue beacon, crevasse rescue kit
Required Equipment (each participant): Headlight , helmet, sun hat, glacier goggles or sunglasses, sunscreen spf 50+, windproof coat, light warm coat, light pack, 3+ liters of water, camelbacks ok, snacks, lunch, bugspray, long pants, ice axe straight shaft, mountaineering boots, crampons, gloves 2pr light and med , harness, 2 locking carabiners, 2 non locking carabiners, rappel device, prussik set (2), ,
Optional Equipment (each participant): approach sneakers, water filter, trekking poles, extra ice tool
Not Required: avalanche gear
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Event Forum

Carl says:
By the time of this event, I will have climbed (tentatively) adams, st Helens, middle sister, and broken top (the previous day), but not hood. If you feel this experience level is sufficient, I would be interested to join, but understand if you don't feel it is

Alice says:
Hello!! I have climbed Mt Adams in one day, and St Helens, and am doing the 1/2 Hood + Hood Climb with the Club. I would love to go on this Climb!

Jim says:
Howdy, I'm a 2018 climb school student who has climbed Hood three times, Adams, St. Helens and South Sister (easy route.) I'd love to join if you'll have me.

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