Santiam Alpine Club

 Activities  Mountain Climbing Instruction 

Middle Sister

May 19 to May 20, 2018

Coordinator: William Strycharz

Summit Altitude: 10056 feet
Elevation Gain: 5000 feet
Round-trip Distance: 14.5 miles
Excursion Time: 30 hours (car-to-car)

Middle Sister via Hayden Glacier/North Ridge

This Alpine Mountaineering Climb is geared for beginners/intermediates. This climb has one of the most spectacular views and sunrises in Oregon! We will be bathed in Alpenglow as we ascend the Hayden Glacier on sunday morning.

Skills covered will be backcountry navigation, snow camping, backpacking, glacier travel on a rope team, crampon technique, self arrest and movement thru a picket line.

We will meet at Subway in Sisters, OR at 8 am saturday the 19th of May. Then we will drive to the Pole Creek Trailhead @35 min.

Next we will begin our trek 5 miles to the toe of the Hayden Glacier. Here we will make camp @7,500' ele. We will be camping on snow.

After a rest we will have a 1hr class on rope team travel, self arrest, ice axe technique, crampon technique, and movement thru a picket line.Dinner. Early bed.

Alpine start at 2 am for a 3 am departure. We will ascend the gentle Hayden Glacier to the north ridge. We will take plenty of breaks for pictures! At the saddle (ele. 9,000')between Middle Sister and Prouty Point we will begin our steeper ascent up the North Ridge. I will place a picket line which our rope team will ascend. After the north ridge we will stroll to the summit. Our route of descent follows the ascent route. Back at camp we will pack up and head back down to Pole Creek Trailhead. I will have a quick cookout at my truck at the trailhead. burgers n beers! <1hr.

Signed Up: 6
Maximum Allowed: 12
Team Equipment: I will provide-ropes and , pickets., We will share the duty of carrying ropes. everyone will carry 1 picket at least.
Required Equipment (each participant): headlight, Helmet, sunglasses or glacier goggles, sunscreen, med-large backpack 70+ litres, 3-4 season tent, 1-2 sleeping pads we are sleeping on snow, sleeping bag to 20deg, stove, cooking pot, extra stove fuel we will melt snow for water., food for 2 days, 2 lunches, 1 dinner, 1 brekky, water-able to hold 3 litres of water, nalgene preffered, camelbacks can and will freeze!, windproof outer layer top and bottom, puffy coat, light coat or fleece, 2 pairs of gloves, light and medium weight, climbing pants, light long underwear, climbing boots that fit crampons- not new boots! Double plastics not preferred because we are doing 14.5 miles and you will be hurting., crampons, ice axe (1), harness- i prefer alping bod., 2 locking carabiners, 2 non locking carabiners, 1 six foot 6mm cord- for prussiks, 1 twelve foot 6mm cord- for prussiks, snacks, medication, 2 pr socks, toiletries, camera, SNOWSHOES!!!!, trekking poles, , , , , ,
Optional Equipment (each participant): shovel, , pee bottle-for night, , gaitors, , rescue beacon (prb), , camp booties (make them light), , gps, , tiny alarm clock
Not Required: avalanche gear of any sort,
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Event Forum

William (leader) says:
I have tons of extra gear if you need it- ice axes, crampons, snowshoes, trekking poles, helmets but i need time to get them. If you need it give me a heads up, Bill

Kerra says:
I'll be spending Friday night in Salem. Is anyone else from down there who wants to car pool?

Carl says:
Hello! Hoping to receive confirmation on my status for this climb. With it being less than a week away, my status is pending approval. Let me know if you need my phone number or email to discuss. Thank you!

Erik says:
Bill, I will unfortunately not be able to join you this weekend. Thank you for organizing, and have a great climb!

Carl says:
Anyone interested in sharing a tent?? My ph# is listed above! Shoot me a text or reply here

Kerra says:
I can borrow a 2 person winter tent. I'm happy to share with a quiet, non-moving sleeper. :)

Carl answers:
If no one got back to you, and you don't mind a guy, I'd be Interested!

Kerra answers:
Calm and quiet is more important to me than gender. And I really don’t want to carry that whole tent myself. :)

Carl says:
Carpool from Portland anyone? I'm good with leaving Friday after work and camping, or driving down Saturday morning. Hit me up!

Christopher answers:
Hi Carl, I'm coming from Portland and I'd love to carpool. Leaving Sat am is better for me, if that's cool with you. I live in Milwaukie.

Carl answers:
Yup, shoot me a text at ###-###-#### and we'll plan!

Carl answers:
Haven't heard back from you. Will be planning on leaving approximately 5am. Give or take. Reach out before then if you want to

Carl answers:
Haven't heard back from you. Will be planning on leaving approximately 5am. Give or take. Reach out before then if you want to

Kerra says:
So... the weather for Sat-Sun isn’t looking great. Bill?

William (leader) answers:
Yes I have seen the forecast and I am willing to snowshoe out to our camp and spend the night, unless it's a downpour. I obviously won't attempt to summit in s thunderstorm or whiteout of snow. We will be leaving early Sunday morning for the summit if given the chance.

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